Madurai treats with a side of jigarthanda at a food festival in Coimbatore

Ayira meen kulambu, a quintessentially Madurai dish often served alongside steaming idlis, rice and idiyappams, is a blend of tamarind, spices, and perfected culinary techniques over many generations. But the star of the delicious, tangy curry is the tiny worm-like ayira fish, known for its tender texture and taste, and sourced from the Vaigai Dam. “Ayirai is always bought alive and is a robust fish that doesn’t die fast. As part of cleaning before cooking, the fish is let to swim in either coconut milk or butter milk. As the fish thrives at the bottom of water bodies, they tend to have mud sediment in their mouth, which is removed when put in milk,” says Sheik Mohideen, culinary director of South Indian food at Pricol group of hotels and resorts. At the group’s Rasanai, which celebrates South Indian street food, an ongoing food festival called Thoonga Nagaram pays an ode to the street food scene of Madurai, a city that never sleeps. “Sourcing ayira and keeping it alive has been most challenging. I have tasted the meen kulambu during my college days when I frequented the late chef Jacob’s home in Madurai. It’s his mother’s recipe. We dry roast the masalas, make a paste, and add to the gravy which lends a unique flavour,” he says adding that Madurai street food culture offers plenty of scope to showcase variety and a memorable experience for diners..

“There is more to Madurai food beyond parottas and Konar kadai kari dosa. During one of my recent visits to understand the food scene better, we discovered a gem — Simmakal Sultan Bhai chicken biryani, a south Indian Muslim style chicken biryani served with dalcha, a tangy gravy made with vegetables and meat. The shop has been there for ages but is not very popular, so we thought of introducing it in our menu,” says Sheik as he picks some of the must-trys from the menu.

While we start with the comforting nenju elumbu rasam soup made with mutton ribs, a perfect start to a cold winter night, we are also eyeing a platter of Konar Kadai kola urundai, deep fried melt-in-the-mouth minced mutton balls. “Along with our chairman Vikram Mohan, we travelled to the hinterlands of the five southern states to perfect the menu in our chain. We built a repertoire of about 1000 dishes. While revisiting Madurai, the food scene had so many delightful additions which we discovered, like the Power Kadai chops where mutton is cooked, marinated and then deep fried,” he explains and pauses as we try out the dish.

The festival menu features only non-vegetarian dishes, and there is lots of choose from. In starters, we try the Madurai kozhi kaal roast that is crunchy on the outside while the meat is juicy inside and also a plate of fluffy mallippo idlis dunked in flavourful nalli kulambu. Check out the beverage menu that packs all Madurai specials like the fruit mix made with mashed fruits and dates and more.

How can anyone not try the crispy Virudhunagar poricha parotta? I place the crisp parotta on my plate, smash it with my hands and savour it with the salna while desserts beckon. There is paal bun, crisp, deep fried buns with a dash of rabdi and creamy jigarthanda that brings together a unique blend of almond gum, ice cream, milk, sabsa seeds, dry fruits, and nuts. While there, also try the Laala Mittai Kadai set, where halwa comes wrapped in mantharai leaves with a helping of Madurai mixture and urulai pottalam (stir-fried potato) just like the way it is served in Madurai.

On till December first week at Rasanai located at Lakshmi Mills Urban Centre, Avinashi Road. A meal for two costs ₹ 1600 approximately. Open for lunch and dinner. For reservations, call 7540022333