After Prada controversy, LIDCOM and LIDKAR reaffirm ownership of Kolhapuri Chappal GI Tag

Days after the Prada controversy about Kolhapuri chappals, and after a business body from Maharashtra engaged in discussion with Prada, Maharashtra-based LIDCOM and Karnataka-based LIDKAR have reaffirmed their ownership of the Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Kolhapuri chappals. “No individual or organization other than us is authorized to engage in any discussion, negotiation, or representation with Prada or similar international entities,” a press release issued jointly on Friday (August 1, 2025) by LIDCOM Managing Director Prerna Deshbhratar and LIDKAR Managing Director K.M. Vasundhara stated.

“The traditional and historic Kolhapuri chappal, originating from Maharashtra and Karnataka, has been granted the Geographical Indication (GI) tag. The officially registered ownership of this GI tag rests solely with two corporations—Sant Rohidas Leather Industries and Charmakar Development Corporation Limited (LIDCOM) and Dr. Babu Jagjivanram Leather Industries Development Corporation Limited (LIDKAR)—as clarified by the Managing Directors of both entities,” it stated.

Kolhapuri chappals, which received royal patronage in the 20th century under Chhatrapati Shahu Maharaj, were made in the erstwhile province under the king. Today, these parts of the earlier province are spread across eight districts. Four of them are in Maharashtra, and four in Karnataka. The tradition of the chappals dates back to the 12th century saint tradition.

In June 2025, the renowned Italian fashion brand Prada presented its Spring/Summer 2026 men’s collection.

“Observers noted that the leather sandals worn by a model in this show bore a striking resemblance to the GI-tagged traditional Kolhapuri chappals from Maharashtra. This resemblance sparked strong reactions on social media platforms and among traditional artisan communities. Following the incident, a group of lawyers filed a Public Interest Litigation (PIL) in the Bombay High Court, alleging that Prada’s use of a design protected under GI registration constituted a violation of intellectual property laws. On July 16, 2025, the court dismissed the PIL, stating that in such matters, only the registered GI holders—namely, the leather industry development corporations of Maharashtra and Karnataka—are the legitimate stakeholders and hence, solely entitled to initiate any civil legal proceedings,” the press release said.

They said that their collective mission goes beyond protecting the geographical indication. “It is also aimed at safeguarding the rights of thousands of local leather artisans and firmly establishing this heritage on national and international platforms.”